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Cedar Creek, Tx 78612-3911

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Lord Randolph or
Jane Markham or
Jo Woolam

Chainmail Halter top patterns

I get a huge number of requests for assistance with halters and there is no easy answer.

There is a delightful variety in the female form.

Size is a multiple issue and consistency is equally relevant. That being said I will offer what suggestions I can.

My simplest halter is a basic triangle  with 4 rows of smaller rings on the base and (sometimes) a few smaller rings on the outer edge (by the arms).   This top is not for every one and only one out of twenty tops I sell is this style. Usually they are "A" cups but I have made them for large breasts that did not want to be very covered.

My more common style is called the shaped cup and works with most size and consistency of breast (with various modifications)

The central part of the cup is made from 30-064 and would look like the diagram below if the central seam were to be opened.

wpe6.jpg (15683 bytes)

I arbitrarily started labeling the sizes based on how many size 30-064 were on side "X". The Nipple area is 1/2 X.

The two cups must be made as mirror images of each other or the do not connect correctly. The second half of the cup needs to be attached two the other side as each pair of rings is knit or you will never be able to do it At least I have never done it successfully.

When that part is done the piece is very cone shaped and not at all like a breast but hold it up to the breast in question and make sure it is getting close to large enough.

add 1 row of 29-064 with a row of 28-064 as closed rings along  side X which will end up closest to the arm on each cup

The cleavage side gets a singular row of 28-064

The bottom gets a double row of 29-064 and then a double row of 28-064

This is the basic cup however no two breasts are created equal so customizing is usually required. If an edge looks loose add smaller rings. If tight replace 28's with 29's until you like it.

frequently and under wire is of benefit.. a piece of three wide out of 30-064 works well. The direction of the chain will be at right angles to each other (under wire and cup).  Connect them to each other with 29-064 (some times 30-064 if the ribcage is wide) that connect to the under wire as a normal row but to the bottom of the cup by going through each ring in the very bottom row (the second row of 28-064)

Detailed photos of the above will accompany my halter kits.

additionally each size has a cleavage version which is just an extra pair of rows on the outer (X) side of each cup but captures any flesh escaping there and redirects it to the front where it is more appreciated

Shoulder straps should connect at the nap of the neck, become a single vertical 3 wide for an inch or two before separating again (the back looks like and inverted Y).   which in turn connects to the backstrap to make an approximate equal lateral triangle.

Shoulder straps can be 4 to one but most of my clients prefer  6 to 1 for the front strapes and 4 to 1 for the back (inverted Y)

the table below shows thew exact ring count for a single cup in each size

halter size








6 to 1 shoulder straps

4 to 1 straps

underwire & back strap











9 rings per inch

















Halter kit prices

this page is informational only I am not processing halter kits at this time


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Page was last modified: Sunday January 24, 1999.